DR 350 clutch problems

for our english-speaking guests - english only. The place to discuss any DR350 specific technical / mechanical /repair / preparation questions you like, or answer others questions if you can.
mike25
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Beitrag von mike25 » 05.06.2008 11:46

Greetings from Italy!

I've seen this beautifull site so i decide to register and here i am:

I've a 1992 Suzuki DR 350, it's like new, it has 12.000 Km and it's yellow frame model, i changed carb with a Mikuni TM36, K&N filter, Hot Cam, hard faced rocker arms, and a complete exhaust system from America brand PRO-CIRCUIT.
It's terrible!

But i have a big problem with clutch: i know it's a very very usual problem on this bike but now i can't drive it because with the 1 gear engaged it goes on and it's not possible to drive...

A month ago i changed clutch (with a complete clutch kit brand EBC) because i always had difficulties finding N, so i thought clutch was arrived in service limit...
but once desassembled, i measured old clutch and it was all in perfect working conditions.. but after all i decide to install new clutch....not only problem didn't disappeared but also NOW with clutch lever pressed it goes on! worse than first!!!

I've seen all reports and tricks about clutch change on DR and i'm sure i made a good job, i also disassembled clutch basket: it's not bad but it has wear signs inside it.
I also tried to change oil, from a 10W-40 to a 5W-40 but nothing changed.

I can't understand what it's appening :huh:

Please if you had problems like me help find a solution because i'm depressed..it's a pair of weeks i'm working on it but i still have no improvement

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Opa
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Beitrag von Opa » 05.06.2008 21:02

Hi Mike

I have read in the forum search funktion. One point is the inner clutch basket. If it's nut is too strong fixed, it will cause your problems. So you have to disassemble all and to loose the nut in the inner clutch, then tighten it only that strong until you can turn the inner basket. If you have the feeling it's to loose, no problem, it will work.

sorry for my english

Uli

mike25
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Beitrag von mike25 » 05.06.2008 21:59

AHHHHHHHHHHHH really??

Now clutch nut it's closed with "hydraulic gun"...tomorrow i'll try and i say you if i resolved or not :clap: :uups:

But you have an idea why hub nut too strong fixed cause this problem?

Thanks a lot

N0s

Beitrag von N0s » 06.06.2008 13:53

did you change the springs on the cluch??

ciao da firenze

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Saubär
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Beitrag von Saubär » 06.06.2008 15:09

Hi mike25,

the problem is that if the nut is tightened to much the HUB (inner part of the clutch basket) can´t turn freely inside the GEAR ASSY (outer part). Thus the clutch does not release even though you pull the clutch lever. I´m pretty sure that this is the problem on your bike.
Now you have to disassemble the clutch, untighten the big nut and tighten it again, but this time by hand! Always try to turn the inner basket after tightening the nut. Use a new lock washer.
The answer to your question why the nut can´t be tightened as i should be is simple. The whole construction is crap. Underneath the Hub there is a washer under which you find a spacer an the shaft. The spacer is ment to keep some little distance between hub and gear assy. Behind the spacer there is another washer which looks exactly the same like the on in front of the spacer. If the spacer is too short, and it is too short even if it´s new, the hub will rub against the gear assy when the nut is tightened too much. You can´t do anything against that except getting some custom made spacer.

Was that understandable? My english has suffered a bit since i left school.

mike25
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Beitrag von mike25 » 06.06.2008 15:48

Hi, i just made work but still goes on with 1 gear engaged. I only disassembled bolt and re-closed it very slowly; now cluch basket is free to rotate and this made me think positive before remounting (before was locked due to a exessive tighten), but when i started my bike as soon as i made 1st gear DR began to move..
I found a word file in witch is explained typical DR350 problem and he says


"If you’ve ever had difficulty finding neutral when the bike is hot, be sure to clearance the primary
driven gear (clutch basket) before reinstallation. This will cure your problems, and allow you to torque
the clutch hub nut to its proper specifications. (SEE GRIFFBONES’S Maximum-Suzuki.com
POSTS). Using any number of methods, remove a small amount of metal (start with 0.003” - 0.006”
and don’t go more than .010”) from the back of the basket (primary driven gear). I used 320 grit wet/dry
sandpaper and a solid flat surface (Picture 6). The goal here is to get some “endshake” when the clutch
basket and hub are installed. Basically, you want to shorten the distance of the basket between the two
thrust washers, so the basket will rotate freely on the spacer without binding against the thrust washers.
The spacer is pinched between the thrust washers, so you want the clutch basket to be a few thousands
of an inch shorter than that. I didn’t take much material off, and only went through 2 pieces of sand
paper before I quit. It might be faster to use courser grit to get close, then smooth things with a finer grit."

It's quite the same thing you just say to me, right?

I got no more power, i'm stressed! Today or tomorrow i'll make last attempt, aftet that i don't have an idea how to resolve.

mike25
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Beitrag von mike25 » 06.06.2008 16:11

I read better what you wrote:

Sorry but spacer it's not too short, it's too long! In fact i found signs left by spacer on both washer due to an excessive tighten. They were in contact and this event produced friction that produced signs.
It's possible to have 2 solution now:

1- I reduce spacer lenght

2- As described in the tutorial i posted, i have to reduce lenght of the basket between the two thrust washers, so the basket will rotate freely on the spacer without bind

What else?

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Saubär
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Beitrag von Saubär » 06.06.2008 16:27

It´s normal that the spacer leaves those signs on the washers as it is in contact with them. But still the spacer is too short. The second solution you posted is the solution for this problem! Why should you reduce the length of the gear assy if the spacer was too long anyway?

Do you have some space between the clutch lever and the part it is mounted to (don´t know the right word for it, the part between bar and lever)? You need some milimeters of space.

mike25
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Beitrag von mike25 » 06.06.2008 20:06

yes i have, this week-end i'll make job and i hope to resolve.

I let you know

Thanks a lot :joman:

N0s

Beitrag von N0s » 08.06.2008 20:18

Zitat (N0s @ Freitag, 06.Juni 2008, 13:53 Uhr)BOX_SELECT   BOX_EXPANDCODEBOX_DIV_END--> did you change the springs on the cluch??

ciao da firenze
sorry i didn't understood the problem. hope you will fix it.
bye

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